Published in the Irish Mail on Sunday September 27th 2026
Two nights in Tokyo might sound like the title of a novel but it’s also the perfect amount of time to get a feel for this eclectic city that’s best described as a feast for the senses.
I pressed my foot down hard on the pedal and with a roar of the engine I was off. With my partner, Terry, on one flank and daughter, Nicole, bringing up the rear, I had a moment where I wondered just what we’d got ourselves into. But that quickly passed as we found our pace and instructor, Manual, guided us through the traffic. Passing beneath huge digital billboards, we weaved through the fashionable streets of Omotesando and Harajuku. A one hour ride with Street Kart through Shibuya Crossing is experiencing Tokyo on a different level, literally.
Part of the fun on arriving at the pickup stop is finding something to wear and there’s the option to go full fancy-dress with a suit, or do what we did and put on some funny headgear. For the duration of our drive around Tokyo I was the Pink Panther and my accomplices were suitably incognito too. Anyone who has looked up things to do in Tokyo on social media will see that Street Kart has quite a following and is listed as one of the city’s top attractions – and we weren’t about to argue. From the moment we took off through the slip streets until we raged through the famously congested Shibuya Crossing the adrenaline was pumping through our veins, not to mention the sweat. Tokyo is hot in July, with the onslaught of rainy season, but Street Kart had thought of everything and given us iced rings to wear around our necks.
Of course the safety briefing was an important part of the process at the start of our adventure but the correct paperwork is essential. We had to take a trip to our local NDLS centre before leaving Ireland to get an International Driving Permit – it costs €15 and is a quick process once you make an appointment well in advance.
Once back on two legs we had the afternoon to shop and this was Nicole’s opportunity to show her expertise. She smashed the shopping options in department stores and emptied her digital wallet at Shibuya 109 where popular fashion is a highlight. The side streets around Centre Gai are filled with cafés, vintage clothing shops and independent boutiques. Simply wandering through the neighbourhood is entertaining thanks to the constant energy, colourful advertising screens and endless people watching. Tokyo is not as expensive as you would imagine and we found a great Thai restaurant just off Shibuya Crossing for lunch that worked out about €15 per head. One thing you can expect in Tokyo is a huge selection of options – everywhere. With vending machines on every corner offering mind-boggling flavours and options we did wonder how anyone thought them up. From Salmon Jerky, to matcha and melon Kit Kats we found the strangest food combinations.
As for drinks the Japanese have created a type of water that turns to jelly when you shake the bottle. In fact dropping into a Seven-Eleven, Family Mart or Lawsons took considerably longer than we anticipated. We might have popped in to buy a can of cola but came out with a menagerie of unusual novelties on each visit.
Tokyo is a city of contrasts and for our base we choose somewhere away from the crowds in the Minato District, that can best be described as an oasis of calm. On arrival in Tokyo our family had just stepped off a Princess Cruises ship after spending nine exhilarating days touring the Japanese coast. Entering the foyer of the Shiba Park Hotel was like stepping through the pages of a book. The décor is a testament to the Edo period – a time of cultural Renaissance in Japan that ran for over two hundred years from 1603.
The reception area took us through a library and each floor of the hotel is dedicated to a different genre of books. Our room on floor nine was dedicated to Travel with gorgeous photo books tucked into the reading area beside the lifts. The winding staircase filled with bookshelves hugs a water feature that oozes calm in the foyer. There’s even a 100 year-old Bonsai on display next to artefacts showcasing unique craft experiences on offer to guest during their stay at this four star property. The rooms come in a variety of sizes and for anyone travelling with children, they will love the bunkbed suites.
Vivaldi plays in the background during breakfast at the Shiba Park Hotel where the atmosphere of Edo still exists. It’s not just the dragon fruit and lychees in the fruit selection or the perfect pastries and delicious hot options that make this hotel so appealing. There is calm here and the peace you can expect from a library. A novel addition is the travelling bookshelf where visitors can exchange books they’re finished with along their travels. A book mark is left to write a message for whoever picks it up next and pardon the pun but it makes a novel way of spreading the joys of reading.
Throughout the day refreshments are freely available including a hot drinks machine, Prosecco and some local snacks. Japan is filled with the most polite, welcoming and kind people I’ve met on my travels around the world and this we found on every encounter with the staff in this hotel.
Being a 10 minute stroll from Tokyo Tower, we made the iconic antenna tower the obvious starting point for our sightseeing next day. Although there are much taller buildings and larger viewing decks, this famous orange tower built in 1958 and resembling the Eiffel Tower, offers views from three levels. For only a few Euros we took the lift to the first deck at 150m and enjoyed the super views of the skyscrapers. The base includes restaurants, bars and gift shops. The Jim Beam Highball Garden just across from the entrance offers a Sunday dining experience – it’s a great way to eat and drink from a bottomless buffet for about €30 but needs to be booked in advance.
Next door to the tower is Zojo-ji, one of the most important Buddhist temples in Tokyo. Small stone statues with incense drifting through the air set the scene for daily rituals. We watched as locals made offerings of coins and clapped twice while bowing at the Buddha. The traditional architecture used in the temple offers a glimpse of Japan’s rich spiritual heritage from just before the Edo period. Entrance is free.
Getting around Tokyo is easy with the IC Card and the train system is clean, punctual and well connected. We hopped into taxis because there were four of us and we didn’t travel far. Don’t expect drivers to speak English but google translate on the phone will sort any communication issues.
Shinjuku was a twenty minute drive away where we went for dinner and nightlife. For something completely different we visited Kujira Entertainment, on the recommendations of some American friends we had met on the Princess cruise ship. To say we had never been anywhere like it is an understatement. We had seen how much the Japanese love karaoke and performing on the ship but it took a whole new level at this venue. Glamorous servers jumped up on the bar and start dancing while the Fast and Furious Movie played on the big screens covering the walls. Decadence and high octane fun followed as cocktails arrived to our table. It is the most chaotic show we’ve ever been to but it was also immense fun.
We quickly learned to expect the unexpected in Tokyo. One of the most unusual activities that we came across is inspired by the Netflix series Squid Game. Fans will particularly enjoy the themed challenges where visitors become participants through a selection of competitive games and immersive experiences that recreate the excitement in a safe and entertaining environment. Although I’m personally not a fan of the show it is hugely popular with families wanting an activity beyond Tokyo’s traditional sightseeing attractions. Fans of anime should make the trek to the suburbs to see the Ghibli Museum. This magical story-book gallery is designed by the legendary animator Hayao Miyazaki and transports visitors to a whimsical world of fantasy with unique short films only found at the museum.
Tokyo is filled with anime and manga art on every street corner, so much so that the murals and flashing billboards at times did overload our sense but that’s part of the beauty of this dazzling city. For the first time visitor to Tokyo, don’t expect to see everything, that’s impossible in a city that hosts the third largest population on the planet. But Tokyo is a city where it is easy to embrace the chaos and reach adrenaline filled highs while relishing the quiet calm found in the spaces where traditional culture still exists.
Factbox
To experience street karting in Tokyo go to www.StreetKart.com prices start from €48pp and can be booked online. A passport and International Drivers Permit are required to take part
To stay at the Shiba Park Hotel room rates start from €320 per night. To book visit www.shibaparkhotel.com/ 1 Chome-5-10 Shibakoen, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0011, Japan
Phone: +81 3-3433-4141
To book the Squid Game experience https://squidgameexperience.com/
Visiting Studio Ghibli see www.ghibli-museum.jp
