The north eastern corner of the United States is one of the best spots on the planet to enjoy autumn – or as they say in New England, The Fall. Leaf-Peeping ready, I set off from Dublin in September on a road trip with my daughter, Nicole, through three of the region’s six states.
Cars and Phones
We started our adventure in Connecticut, landing in Hartford at Bradley International Airport. After picking up our rental car with Hertz at the airport we were delighted that what we call a compact in Europe is considerably larger in the USA. Having WIFI is essential on a road trip in the US but we made sure to turn off mobile data on our Irish phones to avoid a hefty bill on our return. We uploaded an esim instead and used it for GPS and the internet.
Mystic Pizza
It’s Nicole’s first time in Connecticut and she’s been watching the Gilmore Girls box set, so she was super excited as we drove through the lush green fields dotted with red barns and picket fences. Mystic Pizza, the Movie that starred Julia Roberts, put the town on the global stage in 1988. We took a wander there to get our instagram shot at the town’s most famous restaurant. However I’d been told by locals that the best spot for food is around the corner at Sift Bakery and with delicious artisan macroons, pastries and sandwiches I’d recommend eating there. www.siftbakeshopmystic.com
The Mystic Seaport Museum was a chance to experience the time of whalers and sailors and see how life used to be for New Englanders. Local guides in traditional costumes set the mood and tell stories in character. The museum is a reconstructed town of the 19th century with every type of building from a planetarium, school, bar, coopers and chandlers, including a choice of boats to explore. One ship, the Gerda 3, rescued 300 Jews from Germany during the Second World War and came all the way from Copenhagen. It’s been restored to its former glory and sits next to schooners and steam boats. We could have spent a whole day at this wonderful smorgesboard of nautical life. Entry is $31 for Adults and $21 for under 12s. www.mysticseaport.org
Vineyard
If, like us you like to drop by a winery on your travels then there are wine tastings on offer at Saltwater Farm. Created out of a converted aircraft hanger, this space is an oasis in the already calm and rolling Connecticut hills. We sampled the estate grown wines that are grown using old French viticulture techniques. The rose was our favourite but we didn’t leave a drop in our glasses of red and white wine either. www.saltwaterfarmvineyard.com
We stayed in the centre of town at the nautically decorated Whaler’s Inn. This charming hotel is expanding but will still be a boutique property. Parking is free and the attached restaurant, Shipwrights Daughter, serves a cracking breakfast with brioche French toast dripping in maple syrup and blackberries. Our room had the best view of the cantilever bridge in the centre of town. The bridge lifts hourly during the day to let ships and boats pass out to sea – worth noting if you are driving to the opposite side of town. Mystic lived up to our expectations, with charming bespoke galleries and stores that include an Astrology Boutique and Spiced Tea Company. www.whalersinnmystic.com
Before driving across state lines we stopped in Mashantucket Pequot country to indulge in my fascination with Native American Tribes at the Pequot Museum. Tribally owned, this centre is a magical way to learn about the history and culture of the regions indigenous people. With reconstructed villages of the 16th century to wander through and stories of the Pequot wars a guided tour will enhance your experience. www.pequotmuseum.org
Newport Rhode Island
Newport is synonomus with the sea and although it has a hefty port and large marina it is also a decidedly chill vibe. It’s no wonder that the elite and rich flocked here for decades and carved out mansions on this stunning coastline. We visited The Breakers, formerly home to the Vanderbilts in the 19th century and central in the making of the series The Gilded Age. Inspired by the most decorative and palatial buildings in Europe it is immense and takes a couple of hours to get around. A short drive down the coast is Rough Point a stately home owned by philanthropist and tobacco heiress Doris Duke. Both stately homes are well worth a visit. www.newportrestoration.org
Pasta Beach
We stopped off at the charming Pasta Beach Restaurant for lunch. The decor is cool and breezy as we imagined Newport to look and feel. While the menu had plenty of seafood options and antipasti, we were drawn to the pasta which authentic and mouthwatering. Newport is contained with plenty of parking and shops to be enjoyed so Pasta Beach is the ideal spot to take a break while taking in all that the town has to offer.
One of our highlights on the trip was a sail around the sound with Newport Classic Cruises on the Androndike II. This schooner is comfortable with informative hosts and a generous bar on board. Our knowledgeable captain pointed out the house where first lady Jacqueline Kennedy called home as a child as well as filling us in on details about the wildlife and historic houses that dot the coastline. Lines of marinas and moorings filled with beautiful yachts, bob about lazily next to the shore. To book a trip see www.sail-newport.com
American family run B&Bs are generally the best places to enjoy a warm welcome and unqiue hospitality. This was the case when the lovely hostess Nicole showed us to the Jane Pickens Room, named after the starlet of the silver screen. Each room is named after an important woman in Newport History. We have to describe the breakfast because it was mouthwatering – starting with freshly cut fruit in an artistic display followed by warm French pastries made in the kitchen. We both went for the salmon and avocado toast and it was the perfect portion to set us up nicely for the rest of the day. www.charthouseinn.com
Leaving Rhode Island we cross into Western Massachusetts and Springfield, home to some fantastic museums. The Amazing World of Dr Suess Museum opened in 2017 and is an enchanting world paying homage to the author who created The Cat in the Hat and The Grinch. Outside a sculpture garden with an effigy of the author and his best loved characters including Thing 1 and 2 and the Lorus hang around the grounds. Entry to the museum includes a ticket to four other museums, including the Natural History and Science Museums on site. Visit www.seussinspringfield.org Entry for Adults $25 and children $13
Springfield is also the birthplace of Basketball which happens to be Nicole’s favourite sport, so she’s familiar with big names stars Shaq O’Neill and Michael Jordan who made this game popular around the world. Invented in a school gym, on a rainy day in December 1891 the rest is history. The Hall of Fame is built inside a sphere with interactive displays on three levels surrounding a basketball court and we get to shoot a few hoops before leaving. Basketball Hall of Fame entry $28 adults www.hoophall.com
Deerfield is home to Yankee Candle Village so we drop by and are offered the chance to make our own candles. The scent of autumn is bottled in a jar of pumpkin spice and the year round Christmas Shop left as longing to linger all day. With options to make Yankee Candy Jars and rooms filled with children’s toys and books, it’s a paradise for anyone wanting to feel young again. www.yankeecandle.com/south-deerfield-village
We dined at Delaney House in Holyoke, owned by Dingle native Mick Corduff. I can honestly say we had the tastiest steak I’ve ever eaten in the states at this restaurant. Smoothered in a gorgonzola dressing and served with garlic parmesan roast potatoes this meal was the highlight of our trip. The restaurant is attached to the sixty room D Hotel next door and in a great location to explore Western Massachusetts. www.delaneyhouse.com
Before going home we checked into the airport lounge at Hartford to relax, recharge the phones and prepare for our return home. It’s been a fascinating trip with easy to navigate roads and enchanting stops along the way. We may not be Gilmore Girls but we will cherish our memories of New England for years to come.
Factbox
To find out more about the states of Massachusetts, Rhode Island and Connecticut see www.discovernewengland.org
Fly Direct from Dublin to Bradley International Hartford with Aer Lingus from €209 one way see www.aerlingus.com
Book car hire direct at www.hertz.ie or 01 67 67 476. Sign up for free Gold membership at www.hertz.ie/goldenrol for added benefits.
To stay at the D Hotel or dine at The Delaney House see www.delaneyhouse.com
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