Sustainable Safari

Published in the Irish Daily Mail on March 15th 2025

Exploring New African Territory in Kenya

Ernest Hemingway quoted: “I never knew a morning in Africa when I woke up and was not happy.” Now I know how he felt when he wrote those words. I’ve been on safari before and like Hemingway have found adventure in every turn of the road. This time I’m delving into the lesser known regions of Northern Kenya to explore on foot a more sustainable safari, possible during the great writer’s time but less so today. It’s my son Mark’s first rodeo with safari life and we are guided by the expert team at New African Territory.

We arrive in this remote part of Kenya at Kalama airstrip after a short flight in a ten-seat-Cessna from Nairobi with Safarilink. The views of Mount Kenya and surroundings are an enticing taste of the delights to come. A three hour drive through this remote conservancy takes us deep into The Mathews Mountains and our stay at Kitich Forest Camp.

Samburu Country operates at a Jurassic pace and animals differ slightly to those found in the vast plains of the Masai Mara. The Reticulated Giraffe with dark brown markings and Grevy’s Zebra display parallel linear stripes instead of the usual juxtaposed patterns. The Somali Ostrich, Long-neck Gerenuk and common Beisa Oryx make up the rest of the animals collectively called the Samburu Five.

In the Mathews Mountains the range of birds and wildlife is immense and our guides Moris and Simon, are a fountain of knowledge about all, including the flora. On our first hike we meet pastoral Samburu tending to their herds of goats and cows. Peter our other guide walks behind with a gun – he’s trained to protect us in the unlikely event that we run into some lonesome lion or leopard that has notions we are dinner. At all times we feel completely safe and more likely to bump into monkeys or warthogs. Every step we take is an education. While breaking a twig from a branch with small green buds Moris informs, “This is the Strychnos Henningsii, it cures malaria and is good medicine.”

We continue our stroll under the giant Mathews Ranges Cycads – these magnificent ferns are living fossils thought to be over 280 million years old. Stopping upstream on the River Ngeng, Simon has brought blow up rings for us to sit and enjoy our own natural lazy river. Mark and Moris jump from the riverbank swinging a makeshift rope as the sun sparkles between the canopy of leaves. The peace and tranquility is hypnotic as I bob along in my rubber ring.

Lunch is a feast every day at Kitich and all meals are included. Ricotta and spinach form the base of quiches and ravioli, and are served with avocado, salad and green leaves. Every meal includes three courses of mouthwatering quality. Vegetarians are well catered for but we also enjoyed roast beef and chicken dinners too. Before dinner it’s not unusual to be interrupted by the elephants dropping by to eat salt left on the banks overlooking the River Ngeng.

In the evenings we sit by an open fire made by Moris or Simon. It’s not unusual for them to break into song, a lilting hum that has been passed down for generations and a privilege for us to listen to. The sundowners of cold beer and gin and tonic are poured and we slide into that soulful vibe that can only be found on safari.

Next morning we rise from slumber in our sturdy tarpaulin tent complete with beds covered in soft white bed linen and full electric amenities. Simon is at hand with homemade biscuits and fresh coffee. He asks what temperature we’d like for our shower, warm or hot. It will be brought for us and poured in the fresh air from a metal bucket – simple, sustainable and immensely refreshing. He points out the paw prints of a leopard cub in the sand at the tent beside ours. We’re sad to have missed the animal and mindful that there is always Simon or another Samburu Guide at hand to walk us to and from our tents to the main lodge.

Kitich is a retreat from the world and chance to recharge the soul. By day two our sense of the world and priorities have flipped and we can identify the difference between elephant dung and buffalo and hyena poo. We know the healing properties of several plants and how to stop a migraine by biting on the bark of a particular tree. Fly camping is an option and involves a trek through the mountains with an overnight camping by the riverside. It finishes at the RETETI Elephant Sanctuary where we learn about the program for saving orphaned elephants and we get to feed some from their giant bottles of milk. The milk is gathered from the local co-op giving a much needed source of employment to local women. www.reteti.org

We have bonded over our three night stay with the team at Kitich and are sad to say goodbye. However we are met with warmth and enthusiasm by Jimmy Kiondoste, who is our guide during our stay at Saruni Samburu Base Camp and part of the Kalama Conservancy. This was grazing lands until the Northern Rangeland Trust came up with a solution to assist the community to conserve the plains for future generations. In 2007, the stunning resort was created to form a foundation and guests are encouraged to contribute to the ongoing protection of the region.

Saruni Basecamp is an example of conservation and sustainable tourism working hand in hand. Forty years ago rhinos had disappeared in this part of Samburu Country but through the energy and vision of Saruni Basecamp a sanctuary has been created at Saruni Rhino to protect the species. They now have 122 black and 4 white rhinos with numbers growing. This is sustainable tourism at its very best – blending epic adventure with culture that is rare to find.

Wellness is a big part of the experience at Suruni Samburu. The treatment room sits at the edge of the cliff overlooking the plains and all employees are from the neighbouring village. Two swimming pools are carved into the rock and make spectacular swimming points to watch the animals below. Our lodges are luxurious with breathtaking views from our bedroom, sitting room and even the bathroom.

We arrive during the MAA cultural festival. A kaleidoscope of colour awaits, where the Samburu, the Masai and Turkana tribes flock to celebrate their culture in a flamboyant display of traditional dress, singing and dancing.

Jimmy is dressed in full warrior attire and after our safari drive next morning he has ideas to transform Mark and me into the same. Mark’s tall frame and white skin make a remarkable novelty and get plenty of attention. We are interviewed by a local TV station and several radio stations in the process. The event is best described as the Fleadh Ceoil on steroids and continues until the small hours for the entire weekend. We try to get the moves right and have the best fun making complete fools of ourselves much to the local’s satisfaction. Three nights on safari at Saruni Samburu is enough to fill the soul and see all of the animals on the safari bucketlist without following a convoy of dozens of other jeeps.

Our final stay in Northern Kenya is at the foot of Mount Kenya at Olepangi Farm. This is a self sustaining oasis where guests and employees eat the finest organic produce grown in the farm’s orchards. One of the best activities on offer is horse-riding and an opportunity for a different type of safari as we traverse the undulating hills with zebra in the distance. The Barracks, guest villas and cottages are created with biophilic architecture and blend smoothly with the environment. Guest rooms are decorated in a uniquely flamboyant style that proprietor Elizabeth Loker gives all of her décor. After collecting precious textiles from Uzbekistan, and other spots along The Silk Route, Elizabeth hangs each with its own individual story on the decorative walls.

Next day local character Mr Kariuki takes us for a walk into the village of Magutu, each step bringing a new tale. We stop at the Club Signature Bar for a bottle of warm beer where the locals are watching the Serengeti on National Geographic TV. When Mr Kariuki’s friend arrives he decides that Mark looks like one of the Beatles and starts serenading us with Hey Jude. The pool table outside is in need of new felt and the toilet a hole in the ground but the warmth and friendliness of the locals makes this one of the highlights during our time in Kenya.

Time has not tampered with each of the remarkable places we stayed in this part of Northern Kenya and neither has the introduction of tourism. Instead it has created unique and sustainable travel experiences that enhance the life of the local population. Hopefully Mark can return to this region someday far in the future and find that little has changed.

Naoirobi Highlight

Michelle and Mark stopped off in Nairobi before flying back to Ireland and enjoyed a luxurious stay at Manzili House. This stunning property is luxurious with airy décor set around a swimming pool. In the evenings expect to be serenaded by bush babies in the trees and spoiled by the wonderful butler Henry. Small boutique hotels are dotted around the Karen District – named after the Danish author of the novel Out of Africa.

It’s possible to visit the house where Karen Blixen lived and the location for the 1985 movie of the same name. It’s filled with memorabilia and costumes worn by the stars, Robert Redford and Meryl Streep. Entry fee is €14 and must be booked online www.museums.or.ke/karen-blixen