Portopiccolo
Looking up at the terraces, shops and villas that climb the granite rock, it’s hard to believe that where I stand used to be a quarry. With typical Italian chic and panache Portopiccolo was transformed into a quaint tourist resort only ten years ago. Nestled beside the beautiful bay of Sistiana it feels like it’s always been here. Central to The villas, boutiques and restaurants that make up this man-made Paradise is the five star Tivoli Portopiccolo Hotel where I am staying. The views from my balcony include yachts in the marina and Puro Beach Club that insures a luxurious restaurant and everything needed for a comfortable beach stay. Plenty of loungers, a bar and full lido service make this property perfect for anyone wanting to combine a beach stay with a city break to Trieste.
Ferry to Triestse
Although the enchanting city centre is reachable in twenty minutes by car an alternative way to commute is by boat from Sistiana Harbour – a five minute walk away. It takes a little over an hour and is only €12 for a day return ticket. www.delfinoverde.it
Rilke Trail
One of the most enjoyable activities from the hotel is a walk along the Rilke Trail. Named after the poet Rainer Maria Rilke this charming route is a nice way to explore the local terrain. It creeps through a nature reserve and features panoramic views that sweep along the coast to Slovenia and Croatia. Along the way I stopped at an anti-aircraft gun station used during World War II. Birdwatchers will love this trail as the peregrine falcon can be spotted and expect to see plenty of woodpeckers sparrowhawks and seagulls. Rich in flora, the endemic Centaurea Kartschiana is found here with glorious pink and purple flowers. The Trail finishes at Dino Castle a beautiful example of mediaeval architecture used for various events.
Miramare Castle
Between Portopiccolo and the city the stunning Miramare Castle is a must visit. Built between 1856 and 1860 it was home to the archduke Maximilian of Hapsburg and his wife Queen Charlotte of Belgium. Now a museum it harmoniously blends Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance architectural features with many of the original furnishings and decorations still intact. Queen Charlotte’s father gifted the couple seven cannons that can be seen in the beautifully sculpted Italian Gardens. 
They point out to sea and perhaps her father was wise in his choice of gift as it was a period of great unrest throughout Europe. The surrounding marine area is a WWF protected reserve however underwater tours boat trips and sunset and excursions around the park are available daily.
Fruille Venezia Giulia
Trieste is an interesting blend of cultures, being the main port of the Austro Habsburg Empire. After the Second World War, Trieste was declared a free state to accommodate the ethnical mix of cultures in the region as the veil of the Iron curtain and Cold War descended over Europe. As surrounding territories became more politically diverse, Trieste joined Italy in 1954 and is now the capital of the Fruille, Venezia, Giulia region.
Gelato
You’ll be forgiven for thinking you’re in Austria or Slovenia when you look at the menu in the city’s restaurants, as culinary influences come more from neighbouring countries rather than central or southern Italy. Goulash, strudel and meat based dishes form the basis of many menus. If you adore ice-cream like me, than be sure to stop off at Zampolli’s where the family have been making delicious gelato for over one hundred years.
Bajta Salez
On day two we took a short drive up the mountains to Sales and the unique gourmet wine and meat shop, Bajta Salez. The restaurant offers wine tastings taken from a selection grown in their own vineyard served with home cured meat – processed on site from their own organic farm. The restaurant is the perfect spot to enjoy the authentic fusion of flavours of the region www.bajta.it
Literature
Trieste is credited with being one of the literary capitals of Europe and was considered the cradle of modernism at the turn of the twentieth century. Home to Italian writers Italo Svevo and Umberto Saba, others flocked to Trieste most notably James Joyce who lived in the city for 12 years and taught at the Berlitz School. While here, Joyce wrote his book of short stories, Dubliners, and began work on his most famous novel Ulysses. Both his children, Lucia and Giorgio were born here. When he first arrived in 1904 he left Nora Barnacle, his wife, at the train station while he found somewhere for them to stay.
However, he became embroiled with some rowdy sailors and ended up being arrested for several hours leaving Nora at the station with the luggage. Joyce and Nora spent many years renting various accommodations throughout the city and you can follow the trail of these houses with an information leaflet from the tourist office. You’ll pass a charming statue of Joyce that stands on the Ponte Curto and see The James Joyce Café – now in the hands of new owners it’s perhaps less authentic than it has been in previous decades.
Architecture
Trieste has been influenced by various cultures over the centuries, notably the Roman Phoenician, Austrian and Slavic, making it an historic melting pot. The Roman amphitheatre in the old part of the town, leads up to a charming labyrinth of alleyways that come alive at night with bustling trattorias
The main Square of Piazza Unita Italia overlooks the sea and is considered one of the largest and most beautiful in the world. Designed by G Bruni in 1879 the imposing City Hall frames the harbour mouth – now popular with cruise ships diverted from Venice. Trieste is a walkable city with clean footpaths and plenty of cycle lanes making it ideal for the cruise tourist and contributing to its resurgence in popularity as a city break destination.
To sum up Trieste offers a mixture of all the things you want to see in Italy without a lot of the crowds. It’s an intriguing mix of coffee, culture, literary heritage and stunning vistas. If you’re looking for a novel Italian destination it’s the best of the Trieste.
Factbox
For everything you need to know about Trieste see www.tourismofvg.it
The lead in price for a room at 5 star Tivoli Portopiccolo Sistiana Resort is Euros 300 including breakfast. www.tivolihotels.com/en/tivoli-portopiccolo-sistiana
Fly direct to Trieste from Dublin with ryanair.com
