It’s my second visit to Valencia and I was so impressed last time that I recommended my son, Mark, to check it out. He was so taken by it that he’s spending a few months here learning Spanish in a local college – giving me an excuse to visit and see what’s new.
I’m armed with my Valencia card that I bought online to save on entry into museums and some restaurants. It covers all public transport for the duration of my stay so I could have caught the metro but taxis are cheap in this town. The Valencia Tourist Card costs €25 for 72 hours but you’ll find many of the galleries and museums are free. www.valenciatouristcard.com
Old Town
Accessible and charming the old town offers quaint squares. Placa dela Reina is one of my favourites beside the cathedral where the Holy Grail is in situ. Whether you believe it to be the original chalice is not important as the cathedral is a must visit and located next to a space that now enjoys a ceramic market this time of year. Plenty of charming cafes and restaurants surround the square.
This time I stayed outside the old town in the Ilunion4 Hotel. I’ve stayed at Ilunion hotels in other cities and been a fan of the chain’s ethos and employment model as 40% of their employees have special needs. This group was created with a vision of inclusivity as a social model and is going from strength to strength. Offering good quality Hotels for a city or beach stay and currently have 30 Hotels dotted across Spain with three in Valencia and another opening before the year is out. My room is like a new build after a stylish renovation during the Pandemic. The breakfast buffet bar is huge but we had to leave room because Valencia is a city renowned for cuisine. https://en.ilunionvalencia.com
Turia River
Oozing with buckets of style Valencia’s architecture is filled with elegant boulevards stretching down to the coast and port. After a devastating flood in 1957 The Turia River was diverted to a wetland north of the city and the riverbed is now a park for all of the city’s inhabitants to enjoy since 1969. Dotted along it are gardens, children’s playgrounds and sport fields. The gardens end with the magnificent structures that make up the city of arts and science. Designed by Valencia’s most iconic son, Santiago Calatrava, the futuristic buildings are a marvel and make him one of the most important architects in the world today.
Art Galleries
Last time I was here, I took the bus tour to get my bearings but this time I’m ready to explore the new Hortensia Herrero Art Centre in the Palace of Contemporary art. This stunning modern art museum houses works by David Hockney, Roy Lichtenstein and Alexander Calder. The Sean Scully is placed in a room that once housed the palace chapel. Original paintings on the ceiling reflect the old and contrast the abstract new of Sean Scully‘s work. In a truly remarkable space I enjoy English artist Mat Collishaw’s interpretation of the famous Fallas Festival. https://www.cahh.es/en/
Fallas Festival
Every March Valencia comes alive when political satire reigns during the Fallas Festival. Life size effigies called Fallas are created in wood and other materials to showcase current popular stories. They are burned ceremoniously in a decadent colourful display at the end of the fiesta. Traditional dress is worn by locals during this time and many months are spent preparing for the event. The best creations are voted for and spared the bonfire and placed in permanent display in the Museum of Fallas. www.valencia.es/-/infociudad-museo-fallero-de-valencia
Home of Paella
There’s good reason why the cuisine in Valencia is exquisite. A short hop from the city centre lie acres of orchards and farming communities producing fine selections of fruit, vegetables and rice. Valencia is home to Spain’s national dish Paella, which originally was eaten at lunch time by the farmers living in the surrounding districts. Using rice at its base snails and rabbit were added to left over vegetables to make a hearty mid-day meal. Nowadays it’s better served with seafood and the snails no longer feature in the recipe.
Markets
Mark is renting in the Ruzafa district where the local market runs daily with fresh food inside and stalls outside selling incredibly good value shoes amongst other household items. Ruzafa is brimful of trendy bars and restaurants and you’ll also find charming cafes where you can pick up a beer for €2 or a glass of local wine for the same. Mercat Central is a must visit if you want to pick up some chorizo or cheese or buy some garlic or wine to bring home. It’s a covered market with areas to enjoy tapas or a coffee in between shopping.
Michelin Stars
Valencia has many Michelin star restaurants with La Salita being one of the newest. Borgona Rodrigo came to fame with the TV show Top Chef being the winner of the first season. Her restaurant is an oasis of calm and style offering the best of locally grown produce. www.lasalita.com Ricard Camarena is synonymous with fine dining and for a two star treat the restaurant with his own name carries the weight of being one of the finest vegetable restaurants in the world. I visited during Valencia Culinary Festival – an annual event showcasing the best of food in the area. I was lucky to meet with Ricard Camarena at the orchard – his farm, started over twenty years ago. Delivered fresh each morning Camarena ensures only the very best products find their way onto the plates of his establishments. www.valenciaculinaryfestival.es
Canella is Camarena‘s mid priced restaurant in the Ruzafa District and booking is essential. The vibe here is cool and you’ll find many signature specialties that go lightly on the wallet. Hogs head sculptures painted in bright colours evoke an ambient mood and the Asian fusion mix on the menu guarantees a treat for the pallet. At Mercat Colon you can savour flavours made by Camarena at the wonderful Habitual restaurant. The menu offers a full tapas starter option with main and desert for a reasonable €38 and Camarena generously includes some surprises that are also found at his two star establishment. www.ricardcamarena.com
Our flirtation with Michelin Star Dining continues at Fierro, close to Ruzafa Market on Carrer del Doctor Serrano. Here Chefs German Carrizo and Carito Lourenco have fused traditions from across the Atlantic in Argentina with fine Mediterranean produce. The Puchero, traditionally a Spanish dish, travelled across the Atlantic to become a staple in South American countries and on this menu it returns to be given a unique Valencian twist. Juan Alberto, our waiter talks us through each course with much attention to detail. The ambience is unpretentious minimal and welcoming. We get to choose a handcrafted knife, each with unique individual patterns and made in Argentina, before eating our lobster dish. Wild asparagus cake and prawns dance across our pallets and are washed down with creative non-alcoholic beverages made from carrots, ginger and other seasonal vegetables. For a real treat it’s best to book well in advance as the restaurant seats only 14 people. We experience the uniqueness of this stunning Michelin Star restaurant tasting The Emocion menu made up with seasonal produce and priced €175pp while The Evocation menu is €135pp. Fierro is undoubtedly one of the best restaurants in Valencia perfect for a special lunch and one Mark and I will remember forever. www.fierrovlc.com
Tapas
There are dining options to suit all pockets and tastes in Valencia. We tried some traditional Spanish Tapas at Casa Montana. This well respected tapas bar in the trendy Cabanal district is close to the beach. It’s been serving guests for over a century with superb signature tapas. Offering bodega style service the tartar steak is a real highlight. The restaurant serves its own olive oil which is a delight drizzled on the warm chunks of homemade bread. The tasting menu is reasonable at €34pp. www.emilianobodega.com/
Beach life
Being next to the Mediterranean is a real plus when living in a city. One of the highlights of Mark’s day involves trips to the beach. I like the luxury of a sun lounger so hired we two with a parasol for the full day and it set us back €25. The area is well serviced with refreshment huts and the promenade leading into the beach is lined with restaurants.
So far the stay has been a great success with Mark enjoying meeting people from around the world. He’s enjoying the nightlife in the park and spending weekends at the beach and even tempted me to jump into the Clement Mediterranean waters. It’s a safe, clean and green city with the remarkable conversion of the Turia River making a stunning focal point. In fact life in Valencia is so good for Mark that the only trouble I may have, is getting him to come home!
Factbox
Find everything you need to know about Valencia on www.visitvalencia.com/en
Valencia is accessible direct by air from Dublin Cork and Belfast and a must visit for lovers of Spain. Taxis are cheap and arrive quickly and the metro runs directly from airport to the city centre. www.ryanair.com
Stay at Ilunion4 hotel in Valencia from €150 per night including breakfast for two people https://en.ilunionvalencia.com/ Ilunion have three hotels to choose from in Valencia with a fourth opening this autumn.
