If Carlsberg did the perfect place for a city break then Cordoba would be it. Easy to reach from many of Spain’s larger cities, for me Cordoba is the jewel in Andalusia’s crown.
Seville was already a dream as the IRYO high speed rail pulled out of Santa Justa Station. Leaving behind the Giralda Tower and the iconic setting for Bizet’s Carmen, I braced myself for a new Andalusian adventure. Cordoba is a mere forty minutes away on the high-speed rail, and I reached it by gliding past olive groves and the gentle undulating landscape. The carriages at the front are set in a two by one formation with massive armchairs and footrests but with such a short journey I didn’t even have time to grab a coffee from the trolley cart. For anyone wanting to reach Cordoba via Madrid, the same train takes just under two hours from station to station.
I’m travelling with my son, Mark and our journey is made easy by the line of taxis waiting to take us to the Hotel Hesperia Cordoba. As a lover of a “room with a view” I was immediately won over by the hotel’s strategic positioning overlooking the Guadalquivir River. The Hesperia is conveniently located across the water from the bustling historic centre, offering a contemporary oasis. Its recent renovation reflects the designs and calm blues found at many of the city’s main sites.
Our room is fresh and modern but the true jewel is the rooftop bar that provides stunning panoramic views of the Roman Bridge and the silhouette of the mezquita across the river. On our first evening we splashed out on a jug of Tinto de Verano and watched the Andalusian sun turn the stone buildings into shades of burnt orange and gold. The hotel pool is on the rooftop too with views stretching out over the rolling green hills in the distance.
Next morning after a hugely sumptuous breakfast we decided to walk into history via the Puente Romano. This ancient pedestrian bridge was originally built in the first century BC and the main artery leading from the hotel into the heart of the old city. We stopped off at the Torre de la Calahorra Museum for our first bit of sightseeing. For a mere €4 were taken on an immersive journey through the living history of Al-Andalus celebrating the era when Jewish, Christian and Islamic cultures thrived together here. The highlights for me were the interactive exhibits explaining the scientific advancements of the time and the breathtaking 360 panoramic view from the tower providing an unrivalled vantage of the city’s skyline.
I passed by buskers playing Spanish guitar and a calligrapher offering to write my name in Arabic. Once through the Puente Gate we’d arrived in the heart of the old town and the Mezquita-Catedral. This structure is a wonderful amalgamation of a mosque and cathedral that fuses the very best of Spanish architecture with a dazzling 856 columns of jasper, onyx and marble. Framed with horseshoe arches painted burnt orange and white to create a magical forest of shadow and light, there is no place like it in the world. The details change so dramatically from Islamic to Christian art and yet the building works on a higher level.
In May Cordoba is in full bloom as the famous Patios de Cordoba (courtyard visits) are open to the public. This is not just a gardening hobby with a few locals participating, it is a city-wide competition that was recently designated a UNESCO World Heritage cultural event.
We spend the afternoon wandering through the Jewish Quarter and San Bartholeme catching glimpses through open gates into stunning flower-filled-whitewashed-courtyards. Most patios open just before the annual Feria de Cordoba when the city erupts in a riot of colour with women in traditional flamenco dresses and men riding horses through the streets, the atmosphere is infections and makes you want to dance – even if you don’t know how.
After all that walking we need to refuel and I found a hidden gem on one of the labyrinthine streets at El Rincorn de Carmen. Located in a beautiful traditional courtyard near the mosque we feasted on Salmorejo, a thick creamy local soup and wonderful wild rice risotto.
On our second afternoon, we took time out for some pampering in a ritual that has been part of Cordoba and Andalusia for centuries. The original Arab baths have been transformed at Hamman al Andalus, located also close to the mezquita. Stepping into the bathhouse with its star-shaped skylights and horseshoe arches the only sound is the soothing lap of water. The experience includes rotating through warm, hot and cold plunge pools with a heavenly 15 minute massage in a scented room at the start. After so much walking the cobbled streets we emerged from our 90 minute spa treat with completely refreshed bodies and as it was an off-peak session our pockets were only €60 lighter. www.hammamalandalus.com/
The Alcazar of Los Reyes Cristianos wasn’t open during our stay as it was in prepation for the Navegantes, an annual show blending music and illumination through the park. Having explored the palace and gardens on my previous visit I would recommend a visit to anyone stopping off in Cordoba. With enchanting ornate halls and tranquil fountains dotted through the magnificent manicured gardens of orange blossoms and colourful flowers, this gem masterfully merges Moorish and Christian history. www.naturalezaencendida.com/en/cordoba
Two nights in Cordoba felt like a lifetime and not nearly long enough. It’s a city that steals a piece of your heart with a longing to return someday. Ideally located and accessible from Madrid, Seville and Malaga by train or car it’s the perfect add on to a holiday for the discerning traveller who wants to relish the best of authentic Spain. Until next time Cordoba Hasta Luego!
Factbox
Stay at the Hesperia Cordoba from €99 per room per night to book see www.hesperia.com/hotel-hesperia-cordoba
Travel by high speed train on www.iryo.es
For more about Cordoba see the official website of Spain www.spain.es
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