Outback Spirit Red Centre Spectacular – the Ghan with Journey Beyond
by Mark Jackson
I’m nestled in my snug cabin, as I watch the world move through my window — rolling mountain ranges, sunlit plains, as the sun set paints the Yorkeys mountains orange. With no Wi-Fi or phone signal, I find myself entirely present, alone with my thoughts and the gentle rhythm of the train’s engine. From the moment we pulled out of Adelaide Rail Station six hours ago, the adventure began. The Ghan is the quintessential cross continent rail adventure with Journey Beyond. Lunch in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant set the tone for my trip with hearty food and lively company. My fellow passengers swapped stories of their travels as we headed north towards Alice Springs. That evening, after dinner, I was rocked to sleep by the train’s sway.
At sunrise, the Ghan chugged into Marla, as we were greeted by the sight of bonfires flickering in the crisp dawn. With tea, coffee, and breakfast snacks in hand, we stood watching the golden horizon, a lovely welcome to the Outback. Even as a seasoned solo traveller, there is always a sense of apprehension about who you will meet when on a group trip. As I climbed onto Outback Spirit’s coach number 43
for the first time I was put at ease as two chirpy English men Kevin and David introduced themselves, I knew I was in good hands.
After a quick stop at Anzac Hill to take in panoramic views of Alice Springs, we were whisked off to our first taste of real country hospitality for an Outback ranch BBQ, We tucked into perfectly grilled steaks under a canopy of stars. The night was filled with acoustic folk songs, including the famously choreographed song ‘Home among the Gum Trees’, and some incredible stargazing thanks to the absence of light pollution.
The next morning, we began exploring the region’s rocky red terrain. At Simpson’s Gap, the grey and red rock formations glowed in the early light, with a narrow waterhole reflecting the towering cliffs above. In the afternoon, we visited Alice Springs Desert Park, a wildlife reserve packed with insight. Here, during a bird of prey show, our guide, Yordi, delivered a line that stayed with me: “You can’t save what you don’t love, and you can’t love what you don’t understand.” His passion for educating younger generations about the fragile ecosystems of the Red Centre was infectious.
The following day brought us to Ormiston Gorge, a serene sandy beach edged by steep cliffs. While the fish in its waters were struggling with low oxygen levels, the beauty of the spot was untouched. After the necessary tea and fruit cake break, which Bonnie kindly set up most mornings, we tackled the short but steep Ghost Gum Lookout Walk, rewarded with a breathtaking view across the gorge. Like many of the other sights on this trip cameras could never do the view justice.
The road to Kings Canyon was a bumpy dirt track, giving everyone on board a rolling massage. It took four hours to reach the small town of Petermann – our stop for the night. Our early start to beat the other hikers, meant we caught the canyon shift from dusky pink to sunlit gold and was worth every minute of lost sleep. Our hike took us through the Garden of Eden, a lush oasis in the middle of the harsh rock, and past
landscapes plucked straight from a Star Wars set.
That evening, in the last light of day, we gathered at the light towers, an art installation created by Bruce Munro where 69 glass towers illuminated in all the colours of the spectrum, set to a soundtrack of native music and poetry. It was a relaxing and rewarding end to a day full of exertion. Before reaching Uluru, we stopped at Kings Creek to meet Peter from Karrke Aboriginal Cultural Tours. He spoke about the aboriginal peoples deep spiritual connection to land, explaining how certain traditions and tools, like the didgeridoo and boomerang, were never part of Central Australian culture because the local spirits had not passed them down.
The word ‘palya’, meaning a greeting of positivity and gratitude, echoed through our group as we learned about bush medicine, hunting tools, and jewellery making. His words underscored the importance of respecting and preserving the knowledge and traditions of the First Nation People. Along the way, we passed the occasional blue tree, part of Beyond Blue’s mental health awareness initiative which is a gentle reminder to check in on one another, even in the remotest corners of the country.
Uluru, Australia’s spiritual heart, and the lands around it stirred something deep within me. They invited me to look beyond my own small world, to feel the weight of history under my feet, and to connect with the people who have safeguarded this country’s stories for tens of thousands of years.
We arrived in the town of Yulara just in time for sunset at Uluru, its orange glow perfectly contrasted the fading blue sky. I took a quiet moment to sit and simply absorb the view, grateful to witness something so ancient and sacred. I felt compiled to share this special moment so I FaceTimed my mum so she could catch a glimpse of Uluru.
Afterwards we gathered for a picnic dinner and a drone show which included the tale of the Mala people. Snug under our blankets, we watched the night sky dance with light. The next night included the Field of Light installation, with 50,000 solar-powered stems
glowing softly in the darkness, and quiet moments watching the desert stars. This journey was more than sightseeing. It was a living reminder that the landscapes and cultures we are fortunate enough to witness need our respect, our voices, and our protection. If we fail to visit, to learn, and to care, these treasures risk being lost to the generations who follow.
What many visitors do not realise is that the resorts in Yulara are not just accommodation hubs; they are training grounds for hundreds of Aboriginal Australians. Many have completed hospitality courses here, equipping them with skills to work across the tourism industry. The land itself is jointly owned and managed by a board that includes Aboriginal representatives and the Australian Government, ensuring both
its preservation and sustainable operation. It is a partnership that protects one of the world’s most iconic landscapes while providing opportunities for the people whose ancestors have cared for it for tens of thousands of years.
The next days were dedicated to exploring Uluru and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). Walking through the Olgas’ towering domes is a humbling experience – I felt like a mouse in a giant’s garden. The sheer smoothness and scale of the rock face is almost surreal. Wrapped in my jacket and scarf, headphones on, I marched ahead of the group, soaking in the solitude.
Eventually, it was time to return to Alice Springs and rejoin The Ghan for the final leg north to Darwin. An overnight ride took us to Katherine, where we explored the gorge by boat. Towering cliffs rose on either side, their reflections shimmering in the still water.
Our guide spoke about the freshwater and saltwater crocodiles that inhabit the area, and the cultural significance of the landscape to the local Jawoyn people. By mid-afternoon, we rolled into Darwin, stepping into warm, humid air after the cool, dry climate of the Red Centre. The trip had come full circle, but I left with far more than I had arrived with.
Guided with warmth and precision by Bonnie and Andy, our group of 26 transformed from strangers into a family in just over a week. We arrived from different places and walks of life, but left bonded by shared experiences, stories, and a pocketful of memories that will stay with us for years. Experiencing the Red Centre for the first time, I walked away knowing that I had brushed against something that was timeless,
something that belonged to all of us and yet to none of us.
Factbox:
The 11-day, 10-night, Ghan Expedition Red Centre Spectacular runs from Darwin to Adelaide between April and October, including three nights aboard The Ghan and seven nights of small group touring with Outback Spirit, inclusive of meals. Prices are from €6,423 per person, based on a Gold Single cabin. The price for two people travelling and staying in a Gold Twin, is €5,443 per person, based on two people
sharing. Book online at www.journeybeyondrail.com.au.
Mark was a guest of Journey Beyond Rail
