It’s becoming clear moments after arriving at Navan Fort that stories are at the heart of Armagh’s cultural heritage. Celtic mythology is ingrained into the landscape and creatively displayed at Navan Centre. Being the ancient capital of Ireland and home to the Kings of Ulster, this site is of major archaeological and mythological importance and a great way to learn and have a bit of fun too.
Navan Centre and Fort
To find out what life was like during Celtic Ireland I wander out to the recreated fort to meet locals Kevin and Daragh who are making weapons and oat cakes and dressed as if they’d stepped out of the first century AD. They hand me a shield and sword, then Daragh pulls together a traditional brooch made of willow and Kevin shows me how to use a small mill for grounding flour. It’s here in Armagh that the Loughnashade Trumpet was found, along with some of the finest examples of Celtic and La Tene Artwork. The tour includes a visit to the garden and a lesson in herbal medicines and horticulture. This is the orchard county after all and on leaving Navan Fort it’s time to explore what that accolade really means.
Long Meadow Farm
The McKeever Family have been growing apples at Long Meadow Farm for three generations since1968. In recent years they’ve diversified into making and bottling Apple Cider Vinegar, Apple Juice and delicious cider infused with berries and rhubarb. As well as offering guided tours of the farm and bottling process you can sample Catherine’s homemade brown bread and fruity ciders in the custom built Bramley Barn. She was good enough to let me pick a few of the luscious red apples to bring home too.
Road Bowling Armagh
Did you know that Armagh is an important centre for road bowling? I met Chris Mallon, a lifelong road bowling enthusiast who organises tournaments and teaches visitors who come to learn about the history and significance of this exciting sport. 
He helped me to get to grips with the techniques and skills while introducing me to some of the local champion bowlers. Road bowling was listed as a national Irish pastime back in the 1880s and ranked alongside Gaelic football and hurling in national importance. Traditionally it’s played on the quiet country roads of rural Armagh. Players hurl an iron bowling ball, called a “bullet”, at speeds of up to 80 miles an hour. The one that reaches the end of the course with the least throws wins! It’s not as easy as it looks but a lot of fun.
Robinson Library
When I discovered that Armagh’s Robinson Library is the oldest public library in Northern Ireland I was curious to know what gems waited to be revealed. Founded in 1771, the library houses Archbishop Robinson’s personal collection of books, coins, medals, and fine art. I was thrilled to see a first edition copy of Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels complete with penned corrections by the author who was not too pleased with changes made by his London publisher.
Armagh Cathedral
I popped into Keegan’s pub for lunch and enjoyed a hearty carvery dinner of roast turkey that would feed a small family. This cosy traditional pub is in a great location and short stroll to St Patrick’s Cathedral but there are two cathedrals in Armagh – both striking and equally important. St. Patrick’s Church of Ireland Cathedral is built on the hill where Saint Patrick founded his first stone church in 445AD. Inside the Millennium stained glass window is a masterpiece and other ancient relics include an 11th-century Celtic cross and the tomb of High King Brian Boru.
The Gothic-style Catholic Cathedral boasts twin spires and stunning city views over the city. Completed in 1904, it features intricate mosaics, marble carvings and a richly decorated high altar. I was lucky to get a guided tour that included a sneak viewing of the stunning vestments used by the Roman Catholic Bishops and Cardinals. The adjoining museum showcases sacred relics dating back to the 1600s.
Armagh City Hotel
With a leisure centre and swimming pool, I stayed at the newly refurbished Armagh City Hotel. It’s conveniently located next to the Mall and beside the impressive Palace Demesne. I went for a wander around the parkland and what is one of the stops on the 132km walk from Downpatrick to Armagh on The St Patrick’s Way pilgrimage.
Donna Fox Tours
Armagh Observatory was the first Planetarium in Northern Ireland and being a city of firsts I discovered that it’s also home to the first penalty kick. This and other gems of wisdom were shared on a walking tour that I took with Donna Fox Walking Tours. We met at The County Museum which is well worth a wander for history buffs and free of charge. www.donnafoxtours.com
Blackwell House
My second night was spent at the gorgeous five star guesthouse Blackwell House, in the Armagh countryside. Alessio and Edele have created an oasis of calm and charm that blends Swiss perfection with warm Irish hospitality. All five luxuriously decorated bedrooms are delicious but the Loft Suite with a view of the gently rolling hills and an outdoor hot tub is divine. The food was exquisite using locally sourced meat and vegetables and Afternoon Tea that included Edele’s homemade damson jam. www.blackwellhouse.com
Blackwell House is only a few minutes drive from the Game of Thrones Studio Tour so it would be rude not to visit. The impressive exhibition kept me fascinated so I can only imagine what a thrill it is for huge fans of the show. Pre booking is essential https://gameofthronesstudiotour.com/
To finish off a remarkable weekend I popped into The Halfway House, before departing on the road to Dublin. After polishing off a hearty carvery and receiving a warm Banbridge Welcome I was shown how to make an Irish Coffee. It’s the perfect stop after The GOT Studio Tour for lunch or dinner and only a couple of minutes drive away.
Armagh is full of surprises so don’t be shocked if you run into some Big Heads wandering around the city. Having characters like Cuchulainn and St Patrick hailing from Armagh means the locals have much to boast about. Head to Armagh, you’ll be glad you did!
Factbox
For all you need to know about Armagh go to www.visitarmagh.com
To stay at the Armagh City Hotel see www.armaghcityhotel.com
Armagh’s Georgian Festival is a spectacle with fascinating events, guided tours and a charming vintage Christmas Market as the city steps back in time to the18th century. It runs from November 27th to 30th November this year and is a must for Bridgerton fans!
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