The breaking of centuries-old lava crunches beneath our feet as we make our way on the jagged path from Fira to Oia. I’m hiking the ten kilometer trail along the caldera of Santorini with my partner, Terry, and savouring the breathtaking views with every noisy step.
Olive trees and stone walls that would just as easily fit into the landscape of the Aran Islands are some of the features that break up the horizon between the cerulean sky and azure sea. The route is a cornucopia of delights as tiny orthodox churches dot the landscape with all the romance of a Mamma Mia movie.
As we come to the end of the path, perched high on the cliff with windmills and juxtaposed whitewashed houses, the much photographed town of Oia beckons. There’s good reason for the tourist explosion that drives Tik Tokers and Instagrammers here in their droves. In the main square a girl is having a photo shoot in a flying red dress – a bucket list thing to do on the island. The rumble of suitcases on cobblestone ringing through the winding alleys of Oia suggests a challenge getting luggage to the hotels in town. However romantic it may be to stay with the crowd in the middle of this bustling atmosphere, the one-way road system is a challenge.
We instead opted for peaceful accommodation on the sleepy eastern coast. Desiterra Resort and Spa sweeps down to the sea with spectacular sunrises and quiet country paths leading to the hotel. The biophilic architecture of Desiterra creates a relaxed resort woven into the landscape but not without a range of exciting options on site. We checked into the luxurious honeymoon villas, complete with generously proportioned private pools that aren’t overlooked. With beautiful art on the walls, fine linens and attention to every detail we feel completely at home. www.desiterra.gr
Desiterra means land of desire and it is the passion and dream of one man, Dimitris Trifonopolous, who is no stranger to the hospitality business – his previous role was head of Greek Tourism. He’s responsible for creating this dreamy slice of Greece that has become popular for honeymooners and those looking for a truly romantic holiday. The poolside bar offers dining all day with reasonably priced, healthy and delicious options, so there is no need to leave.
The oasis spa is occupied by Nepalese therapists. Pemba gives me a massage that rivals any you’ll find in a top spa in South-East Asia. Therapy rooms offer quiet time in a hydrotherapy pool and sauna making this a destination for the off-season too. It’s easy to walk to the beach and a short taxi or drive takes us to Fira where public parking is free. We however opted for private car parks where available – most work out about €10 for the day. Driving is a challenge on Santorini so it is best to hire a small car to best navigate the winding roads and narrow back streets. But it’s also a great way to see more during your stay.
We drove to the south of the island and on the way came upon the Lost Atlantis Experience. This quirky museum goes to prove that Santorini is not just for lovers as children will also love it. We were handed 3-D glasses but told to prepare for a 5-D experience. Once we were strapped into our seats we set off into the past and the formation of the Caldera, proposing that the ancient civilization of Atlantis was rooted in this corner of the Aegean Sea. The show lasts about twenty minutes and along the way we were sprayed with water at the appropriate moments. This virtual experience was well worth the €14 entry fee. Children under 6 go free. www.lost-atlantis.com
Akrotiri Village in the south-west of the island is an ancient architectural and a short stroll to the red beach, where dramatic volcanic cliffs sweep round the bay. It’s a great spot to stop for lunch with the water lapping right up to the taverns and bars at the shores edge.
All along the west coast are stops offering the best viewing spot for sunset and it is one of the highlights of Santorini. Another is a visit to the volcanic island nestled in the bay and a chance to bathe in the hot springs. We booked a pirate ship excursion to bring us there and included is a walking tour explaining how the landscape was formed. There’s a €5 entrance fee to land on the island. Along the way we were invited to put our hands into the devils oven – a break in the rock that is heated by the ground beneath. There are many ways to explore the coast with options of catamaran dining cruises too. Most leave from Fira Port and the walk down is a steep descent but an easier option is to travel by cable car for €10 one way. We opted to walk down but took the cable car back in time to watch the sunset.
Fira is where much of the nightlife happens and lively bars clinging to the cliff face don’t disappoint. But many of the beaches are in the south of the island. Taxis are expensive but the bus system works well too and is cheap at €2 fare one way. Cruise ships famously throng the island in the busy season but there has been some recent curtailment. However a day trip doesn’t do justice to all this island has to offer. Tempting as it may be to cram in as much activity as possible on a trip to Santorini, a week is easily filled with a mix of both relaxation and exploration. With direct flights from Ireland this island deserves the time to get to know it properly and to be enjoyed at leisure.
Factbox
Before visiting Greece check out www.visitgreece.gr
Fly direct to Santorini with this package from www.Sunway.ie
Deluxe Suite with outdoor plunge pool
Bed & Breakfast
06th May – 7 Nights €1,575pp
Includes flights / 10kg checked in bag / return airport transfers / + 7 nights’ accommodation
Sunway.ie or call (01) 231 1800
