I was last in the Isle of Man when my son was just two years old and in the throes of Thomas the Tank Engine idolatry. Indeed it was the industries and geography of this tiny island nestled in the middle of the Irish Sea that contributed to the inspiration for the famous children’s character. On that occasion we took the steam train to Castletown and Mark genuinely thought he was on the Island of Sodor. Sodor is a word of Norse origins meaning southern islands. Twenty two years later I’m returning to this relaxed oasis to explore Manx Heritage, Celtic and Viking influences and see what’s new.
Trains remain a fascinating fixture and in 2025 the Isle of Man Railways is celebrating 200 years of operations – this includes a Steam Railway, the Manx Electric Railway, the Snaefell Mountain Railway and the Douglas Bay Horse Tramway. Over three days I aim to show my partner Terry, as it’s his first time here, all the highlights. He’s partial to hiking so we start by checking out Snaefell Mountain, perched on top of the island.
In true Thomas-style a vintage electric tram takes us from Laxey, with a stop at The Victory Café to see the statue of TT winner Joey Dunlop. Getting off midway leaves a leisurely ninety minute hike on a round trip and there’s the option of another café stop at the mountain peak. After our descent, and before we leave Laxey, we climb the ninety-six steps of the Laxey Wheel – the largest working waterwheel in the world. Known as the Lady Isabelle, this icon of the island offers impressive views from the top of the lush green countryside.
Many of the restaurants and bars from my last visit are no more but, we came across some gorgeous new venues. A highlight was dinner at Wine Down where the lobster is a specialty and the selection of wines a huge draw. The steak pie was a masterpiece and booking a table here is essential. https://www.winedown.im/ It’s around the corner from Oscar’s, a trendy bar to suit all ages.
My last visit was not my first. I was 10 years old when my grandmother brought me to the Isle of Man in 1976. It was a time when the promenade buzzed with sticks of rock, kiss-me-quick hats and kids eating 99 cones – probably the heyday for holidaymakers from Ireland and the UK. On that occasion I was brought to the Gaiety Theatre to witness the antics of Sir Norman Wisdom! An effigy of the comedian now sits on a bench outside the Sefton Hotel on Harris Promenade.
Back then we stayed in one of the Victorian style B&Bs that used to line the promenades – many have been turned into modern apartment blocks. Times have changed and this time Terry and I are staying at the four-star Comis Golf Resort, set in a super location just outside Douglas.
We hired a car for the duration of our stay and took in a day trip to Peel Harbour and Castle. Peel is also home to the House of Manannan Museum and an impressive way to learn about the folklore and Celtic history of the islands. Inside is a replica Viking Ship and wonderful artifacts and memorabilia that chart the nautical and fishing history of the island. 
I knew already that the Isle of Man is famous for its herrings and kippers but didn’t realise that it is home to the oldest parliament in the world, sitting at Tynwald Hill on the west of the island.With strong links to Ireland, Scotland and Wales, and its own language that is seeing a revival currently, Manx heritage firmly fits in with all the other Celtic Nations. Entry is free with the Go Heritage card that can be purchased for £79 and includes travel on all the trains, trams and buses and all the major heritage sites.
In Peel we dropped into the Boatyard Restaurant for lunch. Making a reservation in advanceis desirable as the food is all freshly prepared they like to pace sittings. This lovely restaurant looks out on to Peel Harbour and offers a huge selection from the menu. I can vouch for the Queenies served in savoury pancakes. https://www.theboatyardpeel.co.uk/
The Manx Museum in Douglas is free to all and currently showing a wonderful exhibition of the life and work of Archibald Knox. He was responsible for the quintessential styling in textiles, jewellery and metal work found at Liberty & Co in the early twentieth century. He was hugely inspired by the landscape of the Isle of Man and blended Celtic designs with Art Nouveau creating a bridge between the Arts and Craft movement and modernism.www.manxnationalheritage.im/
Port Erin in the south of the island looks over a charming cove and beach that is serviced with a beach bar and saunas. Popular with sea swimmers, we checked out the Kishty CheBeach Spa that offers a deliciously decadent hot tub and saunas. www.kishteycheh.imAfterwards we meandered through the town and stumbled upon a railway museum filled with vintage memorabilia and free of charge.
Our final meal was at Coast Restaurant – part of the Claremont Hotel on the Loch Promenade. In a good location to watch the world go by or stay if you want to be in the middle of the action https://www.coast.im/
Castle Rushen, in Castletown, is a preserved mediaeval castle and located close to Ronaldsway Airport, so we popped in for a visit on our way home. We could have spent longer exploring this wonderful attraction as the curators were a wealth of information and views stunning from the fortress walls. However our thirty minute flight home to Dublinbeckoned. The Isle of Man packs a hefty punch for such a small island and left us with an appetite to return!
Factbox
For all you need to know about IOM see https://www.visitisleofman.com/
Fly from Dublin to Isle of Man – www.Aerlingus.com
Go Explore Heritage cards can be purchased from the Welcome Centre in Douglas Sea Terminal and the airport information desk among other places.https://manxnationalheritage.im/
Comis Hotel & Golf Resort
Set in 250 acres of Manx countryside just outside Douglas, this 4-star resort offers 106 rooms, suites, and apartments – including family and pet-friendly options. Facilities include a luxury spa, indoor pool, gym, two restaurants and a championship golf course. Free parking and Wi-Fi throughout.
Rooms from £99 per night. https://www.comishotel.com/
