Watch my interview about the Inishowen Peninsula on RTE’s Today Show
I kissed a camel once. His soft furry lips were not too unlike those of a charming Alpaca that I met when I was enjoying a hike in Donegal recently. Overlooking the turquoise crystal waters of the Atlantic Ocean, The Wild Alpaca Way is the brainchild of John McGonagall and his wife Patricia and sons. They have created this unique visitor attraction set against the backdrop of the Knockamedy Bens on the Inishowen Peninsula. Visitors get to walk with their own alpaca on a lead, each named lovingly such titles as Banba, Ted, Macca and Mojo.
My alpaca was a cheeky chestnut called Rio and I couldn’t keep my hands off him. Alpaca fur is thick woolly and apparently reaches temperature of 40 degrees under all that snugly fluffiness. Joining a tour of The Wild Alpaca Way is a great way to get up close to these gentle animals who offer a therapeutic quality to the walking experience. John is passionate about his alpacas and boasted justifiably about living in one of the most beautiful parts of Ireland. Below five fingers beach glistens in the sunshine with billions of grains of white sand. We trek through gorse filled hills and enjoy the camaraderie with people who have come to meet the Alpacas from all over the world. For families and people of all ages it is truly a wonderful adventure.www.wildalpacaway.com
The R242 roadway to Malin Head takes in some of the most breathtaking views in Ireland and it is a spooky coincidence that it bears a remarkable resemblance to one of the Star Wars Movie’s most lovable characters. So when the eight Star Wars Movie was being filmed, locals chose to rename it the R2D2. There’s a signpost to acknowledge this at a quirky stopping point on the way to Banba’s Tower. This lookout tower was built in 1805 during the Napoleonic wars and is perched high above the rugged rocks and one of the many EIRE signs dotted around the country to identify Ireland to aircraft during World War 2. Ashort stroll away is Hell’s Hole – a cliff face where the Millennium Falcon was docked for filming in 2016.
During the exciting time of movie making in the area, many of the cast stayed in the Four Star Redcastle Hotel nestled on a beach overlooking Lough Foyle. This gorgeous hotel sits over the shoreline offering stunning views from rooms and the bar with ceiling to floor windows that give the impression from the dining room of being on a luxurious cruise liner. Aptly named The Edge, the restaurant is a 2AA rosette winner and the menu truly has something to satisfy all tastes and is remarkably good value too. I can vouch for the duck and the fish which we finished off with melt in the mouth desserts.
At incredible value for four star luxury it isn’t a surprise that Redcastle has won best Wedding Venue hotel in Ulster at the Wedding Awards in 2023. The hotel rooms have all been recently refurbished to the tune of a half a million revamp and many enjoy the great views, some with their own balcony. As well as a large pool and spa, also boasting the incredible views, Redcastle has a gym and its own nine hole golf course. For families the waterpark at Inish Adventures is only five minutes down the road in Moville and other water sports including kayaking are catered for there.
The Inishowen 100 route has been around longer than the Wild Atlantic Way so it is no wonder that it claims the start of the world known brand. Being the largest peninsula on the island of Ireland means great variety of landscapes and different attractions. One of the most widely known because of its remarkable story is Wild Ireland. The brainchild of solicitor and zoologist Killian McLaughlin this sanctuary for wild animals native to the island of Ireland is a must visit. Bears, wolves and European Lynx were once found roaming our forests and woods but over the years became extinct for a variety of reasons. The wolves turned 6 on May 4 th this year – another spooky Star Wars coincidence perhaps? This project is unique in Ireland. It is wonderful to see deer and wild boar and many of our native animals back on display in their natural habitat.www.wildireland.org
I drove up the west coast overlooking Lough Swilly where the translucent blue ocean sparkles against the white shore on sunny days. Buncrana being a favourite for holiday makers over the years is a good road from Lifford and leads around the coast to the remarkable Fort Dunree. This attraction will certainly entertain the whole family. Entrance is via a drawbridge and inside six chronological chambers explain the eventful history of the area. From wolftone to the napoleonic wars this place has documented some of the most exciting stories in Irish history. It’s remarkably how it has been crafted into a present day attraction with two virtual reality guides to a hazardous adventure on a ship and hot air balloon ride over stunning Lough Swilly. www.fortdunree.com
We continued driving on the Inishowen 100 route where a stop off at the Glenevin waterfall is a must. It is a short walk from Clonmany but the 40ft drop is a little bit of tropical magic – unexpected in such a wild and expansive location. The little coffee shop is refreshing on route but we took the five minute drive to Ballyliffin to meet the 2017 World Chowder Making Champion Kieran Doherty, or Duey as he like to be called. A talented chef, Duey was trained in Killybegs but had a childhood passion to cook. I can certainly vouch for the amazing food he offers and the best chowder I’ve ever tasted.
He has a spiritual connection to his home and business at Nancy’s Barn. He told me that as a child his parents would drive past what was a barn to the Nancy family’s house and he’d say I am going to own that one day. He did as it turned out and it became his family home. Two years later he made it into a café with capacity for 16 which has now turned to 60 and with the extension of a bar out the back it is a must stop off for anyone travelling around thepeninsula. www.nancysbarn.ie
Only an eight minute drive from Nancy’s Barn is Doagh Famine Village. This is the passion project of local man Pat Doherty who has turned his ancestral home into a living and unique museum filled with a record of life in the area for the last few hundred years. The artefacts are all genuine and local and perhaps most striking is the references Pat makes to his own family and life they lived in the village. Rabbit hunting was an important way to survive and to keep the rabbits strains strong it was essential that farmers would share and cross mix before breeding season. He tells how people didn’t swim in the old days but caught fish with a stake at the shoreline instead. The catch would traditionally be salted with salt gathered from the sea. It’s no coincidence how port salon acquired its name and how important it was as resource. Pat mentioned how in the days of Rome soldiers were paid with salt as it was such a valuable commodity. A large loom features in the first thatched cottage, a symbol of the impact that the American Company, Fruit of the Loom, made to the region in the 1970s. Each year Pat, and hisfamily who also work on the project, add more artefacts to tell more stories in as realistic detail as possible. For me the most moving display is the life size eviction scene which truly brings the most harrowing era in Irish History to life. As a self-subsidised museum it is essential that it is supported and I can’t think of a better way for a teacher to explain what life was like in Ireland than to bring their students to this remarkable place.www.doaghfaminevillage.com
I have to mention the genuine warm welcome you will receive from the locals who are so proud of their gorgeous home – and they have every right to be. It had been two decades since my previous visit to Inishowen and I won’t leave it so long next time. Inishowen you are beautiful and in the words of Anakin Skywalker, “You’re exactly the way I remember you in my dreams.”
Fact Box
For all you need to know about Donegal see www.govisitdonegal.com
Redcastle Hotel
REDCASTLE HOTEL AND SPA ANNOUNCES SERIES OF YOGA RETREATS HAPPENING IN JANUARY AND MARCH 2026From €335 per person sharing and €149 for a day option.The award-winning Redcastle Hotel and Spa in Donegal is delighted to announce a new series of resetting yoga retreats, offering guests the perfect opportunity to relax, recharge, and restore body and mind in the tranquil surroundings of the Inishowen Peninsula overlooking Lough Foyle.Following a string of sold-out experiences, the hotel will host three upcoming retreats led by renowned yogi Tara O’Rourke, founder of Saol Beo Therapies and Training.The dates are as follows for January and March 2026:
- Friday 6th – Sunday 8th March 2026
Each retreat offers a rejuvenating programme of Vinyasa Flow and Restorative Yoga, guided meditation, and intention-setting rituals, complemented by optional sea swimming and sauna sessions on Donegal’s stunning coastline.Guests will also enjoy gourmet dining in The Edge Restaurant, luxury accommodation, and full access to Redcastle Hotel’s spa and leisure facilities.“These retreats are about creating space for stillness, self-connection and calm,” said Tara O’Rourke lead yogi. “The Redcastle estate setting, with its sea views and serenity, makes it a truly special place to unwind and reset.”Packages start from €335 per person sharing a room, and €149 for a daytime option which included all yoga sessions, meals (breakfast and dinner both days), access to leisure facilities, and optional add-ons.Spaces are limited and early booking is advised.
